T/restaurants

Your Tuesday Evening Briefing

Here’s what you need to know at the end of the day.

Resisting the Hot Reservation Economy

In praise of the restaurants where you can definitely get a seat and still enjoy a fantastic meal.

Everytable, a California Chain With Sliding Scale Prices, Opens in New York

A Cipriani in an upscale food hall, seafood sharing a West Village space with a breakfast spot, and more restaurant news.

A Pasta Granny Gets a Perch in Manhattan

Nonna Dora’s Pasta Bar offers about 20 varieties of pasta, all made by an 86-year-old chef, Nonna Dora herself.

Italian Meals Without the Boring Parts

Nonna Dora’s Pasta Bar, in Manhattan, mostly dispenses with large servings of fish and meat, so you can concentrate on the good stuff.

Leave the Sweatshirt at Home. Dining Dress Codes Are Back.

A number of restaurants are betting that Americans want to get gussied up again, but not everyone is thrilled about the fashion screening.

Beyond the Châteaux: New Escapes in France’s Loire Valley

Rethinking what the region’s travel should be has meant expanding the focus from fairy tale castle crawls to experiences anchored more firmly in nature, food and the arts.

All of Those Quitters? They’re at Work.

The Great Resignation was in fact a moment many people traded up for a better-paying gig.

The Carbone Partners Plan a Members-Only Club in New York

The latest outpost of Major Food Group’s exclusive ZZ’s Club, to open in Hudson Yards by year’s end, will feature a private edition of Carbone restaurant.

Reader Questions: Graduation Dinners, Kid-Friendly Spots and Top-Tier Salads

You asked, we answered.

Ana Bar & Eatery, Offering Prepared Foods, Opens in Hudson Yards

Mexican fare from the Mermaid Inn team, inventive fusion with roots in Korean cuisine, and more restaurant news.

Can There Be Joy in Fast-Casual? Rowdy Rooster Says Yes.

There are no trade-offs for convenience at the new restaurant from the Dhamaka team, serving Indian fried chicken and other dishes that are ready in five minutes or less.

Out of India and Into the Frying Pan

Fried chicken, potato patties and cauliflower are the draw at Rowdy Rooster in the East Village.

A Homey Restaurant Tucked Inside a Mexico City Apartment

Plus: a new model of Hermès’s Kelly watch and more from T’s cultural compendium.

In a city pummeled by upheaval, a $4 lunchbox is now all the rage.

Sommelier Who Set Fire to Dining Sheds Agrees to Pay Back Restaurants

Caleb Ganzer, who had scaled the heights of the high-end wine trade, was caught on video setting fires. An agreement with prosecutors could result in charges against him being dismissed.

Frankies 457 Spuntino Plans a Nashville Outpost

The restaurant group will bring its brand of Brooklyn Italian fare to a new development in East Nashville.

Lucia Pizza Brings Roni Cups and Clam Pies to Sheepshead Bay

A new pizzeria in Brooklyn strays from the slice-shop template.

A New-School Pizzeria Nods to the Old School

Not far from where his parents ran a Brooklyn pizzeria, Salvatore Carlino makes his pies. Some he invented, others are tributes to classic styles.

Wan Wan, Focusing on Regional Thai Fare, Opens in NoLIta

A sake bar from Sushi Nakazawa’s finest, Brazilian in Midtown West, and more restaurant news.

Cioppino This Good Can’t Be a Cliché

In San Francisco, the hallmark seafood stew can be — and often is — a tired menu item, but our critic finds that the right version still thrills.

Beach Dunes Eats & Arts Café in Queens Provides Affordable Food

The cafe and farmers’ market offers prepared items, produce and pantry staples in an affordable housing unit near Far Rockaway.

In Epicurean Hong Kong, a Humble $4 Lunchbox Is Now All the Rage

In a city pummeled by political upheaval, economic downturn and the pandemic, bare-bones ‘two dishes and rice’ restaurants have become a go-to destination across all social classes.

When a Restaurant Is a Work of Art

Carsten Höller’s latest work is a dining establishment, a social experiment — and a celebrity magnet.

In London, a Platinum Jubilee and ‘Bridgerton’ Events Await Visitors

Royal culture, historic sites and traditional British experiences are catnip to Americans who have missed traveling across the pond. A visitors’ guide.

Hyper-Specific Mother’s Day Brunch Recommendations

Because no two moms are the same.

Kono, Yakitori From an Expert, Opens in Manhattan’s Chinatown

Mike Solomonov and Steve Cook’s latest arrives in Brooklyn; an Eataly Downtown spot pivots; and more restaurant news.

Everyday Italian Recipes From Serafina

The founders of the New York-based restaurant chain have a new, vibrantly photographed cookbook with all the essentials.

The Plastic Paradise of Tokyo’s Famous Kitchen Town

There is an estimated multibillion-dollar market in Japan for food you can't eat. The craftsmanship can be extraordinary.

How One New York City Restaurant Fought to Survive

We spent three months with the owner of Saigon Social, a Vietnamese restaurant on the Lower East Side that has only ever existed in pandemic-era limbo.

The Untold Story of Sushi in America

How a controversial religion from Korea quietly built an empire of raw fish.

The 2021 Restaurant List

The 50 places in America we’re most excited about right now.

How France’s Vaccine Pass Is Working So Far

The country this summer began requiring patrons to show proof of vaccination to eat at restaurants or visit other public spaces — similar to rules that will begin to be enforced in New York City today.

The Reincarnation of N.Y.C. Restaurants

Recently opened bars and restaurant are paying homage to the spots they replaced during the pandemic.

A Year Without Travel

The pandemic closed borders, halted air travel and emptied destinations of tourists. As its first anniversary nears, we look at how six places dependent on the industry have adapted to the disruption.

Jing Fong Workers Protest Restaurant Closing

After Chinatown's biggest restaurant announced it would be closing indoor dining, workers and supporters protested the move.

N.Y.C.’s Covid Metrics Are Dire. Cuomo Is Reopening Restaurants Anyway.

Average per-capita case counts in New York City are 64 percent higher than they were in December, when Gov. Andrew M. Cuomo banned indoor dining.

Cecilia Chiang Lost Everything in China, and Built It Back in California

She twice escaped war in China, and eventually landed in an America that was hungry for a new kind of Asian cuisine.

See What Happens When N.Y.C. Streets Are Full of People Instead of Cars

As the pandemic lockdown cleared the roads and as governments instituted popular programs to keep restaurants and small businesses alive, communities have gotten a glimpse at what the city is like when the streets are reimagined. New Yorkers don’t...

Hopeful Day in Queens: A Slice of Pizza, Served Indoors

After months of lockdown, restaurant owners in this Queens neighborhood finally had a reason to be optimistic: indoor dining had returned.

Our Lives Happen in Restaurants

Renowned writers remember some of their funniest, best, strangest and most memorable meals out.

The Downtown New York Restaurant With a Who’s Who List of Devotees

From the start, Omen was a gathering place for artists, writers, actors and designers — 40 years later, in a vastly different city, it still is.

How the Virus Transformed the Way Americans Spend Their Money

Airlines and movie theaters are hurting. Grocery stores and streaming services are raking it in.

Wonderland at a Winery

Since its opening in 2017, the d’Arenberg Cube in McLaren Vale has attracted about 1,000 visitors each day, making it one of South Australia’s most popular tourist destinations.

How to Explore One of Sweden’s Most Peaceful Nature Reserves

Glaskogen offers over 80 lakes, more than 180 miles of hiking trails — and proximity to other delightfully low-key attractions.

In Mexico City, a Blossoming of All Things Japanese

Japanese-inspired businesses are sprouting up — from fashion labels and boutiques to a new hotel — along with new Japanese-influenced places to eat and drink.

Kibbe and More in Williamsburg

At Sakib, the menu reads like an exhaustive listing of street food from the Levant.

Pick a Little, Talk a Little at Tsismis

The chef Jappy Afzelius, who trained with Alain Ducasse, cooks loose, unfussy and liberated versions of classic Filipino dishes at this restaurant named for gossip.

Where Creaminess Is Celebrated

At Dua Kafe, in the East Village, a parade of dishes embody an enveloping, voluptuous richness that is as much an embrace of life as it is of food.

At Lokanta, Sheep’s Head Soup and Other Turkish Delights

The celebrated (and talkative) chef Orhan Yegen brings his repertoire of subtle braises, soups, and stews from Turkey to Astoria, Queens.

Stuffed Tortillas at Ricas Pupusas & Mas

At this modestly outfitted restaurant in Sunnyside, Queens, you can eat pupusas the Salvadoran way — with your hands.

A Caviar Shop With a Tasting Menu, on the Upper East Side

Marky’s Caviar, a Florida company, opens a New York branch; Joe Ogrodnek of Dover and Battersby, unveils a rooftop bar; and more restaurant news.

Smorgasburg Opens Latest Outpost, in Financial District

Hearty northwestern Chinese fare in the East Village, a highly regarded Vietnamese restaurant’s coffee bar, and more restaurant news.